Snow lies still in the sun and reflects a thousand sparks.
The morning shadows of trees stretch long 200 feet below your
precarious perch. "Ice," you shout as you duck a refrigerator-sized
block of the frozen waterfall knocked loose by your ice pick.
"Ice! Ice! Ice!" you shout as it falls until WHUMP!
The snow drift becomes a swirling tornado of white treasures as
you partner shouts up to you.
"Daaaaaammmmm! That was a friggin' HUGE block."
You look down to see him grinning madly and covered with the
fine powder fallout of the bomb you dropped at him.
"OK?" you shout.
"Sure, just stop throwing shit at me," comes the
reply, "and get in some pro. That ice is sketchy."
This is the sort of thing that happens during ice climbing
outings. For many climbers, ice climbing is a brilliant contrast
to the monotony of a dull career. Really, even a truly fascinating
job looks pretty mundane compared to the exhilaration, the raw
passion, of ice climbing.
Ice climbing is a sport interlaced with pain and pleasure.
There are so many inherent opposites, hot and cold, up and down,
sensational and numb, that ice climbers often refer to yin and
yang when describing their sport. Hands, pounded and squeezed
and frozen, feel a numb yin while climbing. Then, atop a frozen
fall, when they are lowered and blood rushes back in, the wicked
burning yang will make many climbers howl in pain. This is ice
climbing. It is a world of hurting solitude and darkness.
Ice climbing is also one of the most fun, rewarding, and beautiful
participation sports in the world. For some climbers, the act
of clawing slowly up quaking blue pillars of frozen water takes
on an almost spiritual significance.
Ice climbers participate in nature in a way that few people
ever do. They are usually up before sunrise. They then spend the
whole day, or maybe more, in remote, snow covered places where
crowds of people very rarely go. They put themselves in dangerous
situations far from the secure blanket of civilization. Thus,
a team of ice climbers must be self-sufficient and independent.
They must be able to make sound decisions and get themselves out
of any trouble that may arise. Help could be days away. Sometimes,
climbers opt to climb easy routes to keep out of harms way. But
every so often, the lure of the 'sharp end' on a burly piece of
ice will get the best of you. Suddenly, you will be high above
your last piece of protection, arms sobbing weakly, legs trembling,
while you try to drill in a stubborn ice screw that will just
not bite. And until this harrowing moment passes, either with
your successfully climbing the section, or you taking a 30, 40,
or who knows how long a fall, you will feel sensations that were
only meant for wolves.
As you will soon find out, leading the sketchy stuff, getting
on the "sharp end" of the rope, is what ice climbing
is all about. That is not to say that climbers always feel particularly
bright when they are in the middle of a great lead. Sometimes
they feel downright foolish. Feeling foolish has a lot to do with
ice climbing.
Right! Foolishness and fear. We're on the right track. Now to reign this thing in, point it in a straight line, and learn you the ropes, so to speak.
Before we get into what you do when you ice climb, you must know the three fundamental rules of ice climbing. These rules are never to be broken. These rules are common sense. Try to follow them at all costs or you will pay the price.
Rule number 1: Never Fall
Rule number 2: Don't hit yourself, your climbing partner, or the rope with an ice pick or the spikes on your feet, crampons.
Rule number 3: Don't climb anything you are afraid to stand under.
If you follow these hard and fast rules and always wear a helmet, you shouldn't run into much trouble. Yet ice climbing is dangerous. Proceed at your own risk.
To climb ice, you will need a big pile of gear. This gear is
expensive and specialized. It will do you no good in the kitchen
or woodshed. It is for ice climbing, and, with the exception of
rock climbing or cat-burglary, will do you absolutely no good
for anything but ice climbing. So, without further ado, ice climbing
advice; don't buy anything until you are sure you like to ice
climb.
There are many mountaineering and gear shops, as well as guide
services, that will rent you the gear to go ice climbing. This
is the way to go, because once you lay down the $1200 to $2000
for equipment, you'd feel sort of wronged if you didn't like to
ice climb, wouldn't you?
While it is expensive, ice climbing is really quite cheap in
comparison with, say, downhill skiing or motorcycle racing. And
once you have equipment and knowledge, almost every ice climb
in the world, with a few notable exceptions, is free to climb
upon. Your gear will last for years.
Once you have the gear in hand, you need to learn what it's
for and how to use it. The axes are quite straight forward. They
are about two feet long, with an alloy or carbon fiber handle
and a pick straight out of a bad horror movie. And what a movie
it would be, "Ice Ax Massacres," straight from the mountains
to Hollywood to a theater near you. Six bimbos and their would-be
boyfriends hacked to death by a psychopathic ice climber near
a resort in Telluride, Colorado. Nightmarish stuff that would
certainly be hard to slough off by the centrist members of the
ice climbing community. Just look what that bastard film "Vertical
Horizon" did to the reputations of mountaineers. People were
asking "do you really do that sort of thing," for a
month. When they ask, there is no better answer than to an affirmative
nod and quick wink. If they haven't been there, they will never
know.
Enough of this. You need to know how to ice climb. So anyway,
the picks are straight forward, the crampons look a bit like bear
traps, and the boots look like boots. These are the only required
items for ice climbing. The rest of the gear, which you must have
as a beginner and which even the most seasoned experts usually
use, is for safety. The safety gear usually includes two ropes
or one twin rope, a helmet, 5-10 ice screws to attach the rope
to the ice, about 10 nylon slings, around 20 caribiners, and sunglasses.
Apart from this safety gear, most ice climbers opt for some of
what I call luxury gear. These are things like Gore-Tex gloves,
jackets, or pants, nice quality long underwear, good backpacks,
stoves and back rests. For most beginners, these are the last
items that should be bought. A simple pair of wool pants, long
underwear, a sweater, hat and gloves will keep most folks plenty
warm.
To learn how to climb ice without killing yourself you will
probably need to take at least one class. In the class, you should
learn how to set up top ropes, attach the gear to your body, and
ascend ice with the aid of ice climbing picks and crampons. Picks
are in your hand, crampons are the sharp points on your feet.
If you opt to take a class, be sure to find out what you are getting.
Ask if you will learn to set up top ropes. This is critically
important for you to become a self sufficient ice climber, as
it will permit you to set up a rope system where the rope goes
from the ground up to the top of the climb, then back down to
the climber. It is a safe way to learn the techniques of ice climbing.
The first time you ice climb, if you have never rock climbed,
you will need to learn how to belay. The belay is a way to control
the rope while your partner climbs. One of several devices will
be attached to your harness to apply friction to the rope in case
of a fall. Your instructor will teach you how to belay. Make sure
to pay attention to what they teach you. When your partner is
climbing, their life is in your hands.
When you first climb, you will be on a top rope. This technique,
described above, makes it virtually impossible to fall (providing
you follow the three rules). While on a top rope, it is OK to
sit and rest in your harness, suspended by the rope. Try to hang
as little as possible, because when you start to lead climbs,
you will have little, if any, opportunity for rest.
Another way to get your feet wet (or more accurately, frozen)
in ice climbing is to tag along with some experienced ice climbers.
This works well if you already know how to rock climb and can
handle the rope work with little instruction. It also works well
if you have patient friends that ice climb. The problem is that
not that many ice climbers are known for their unending patience.
Yet, if you are polite and eager to learn, finding a willing teacher
shouldn't be too hard, provided you don't live in the tropics.
To find someone to take you out, spend some time at a sport
climbing gym or bouldering area or a bar, anywhere that climbers
frequent. Look for the antisocial, scruffy individuals with big
calves and more bulky bodies than sport climbers. There is a fairly
good chance that, if they are ice climbers, you will be able to
convince them, with a six pack or two, to take you ice climbing.
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